In the heart of Puglia, a freshly baked focaccia managed to outshine the global giant McDonald’s. This isn’t a legend—it really happened in Altamura, in the province of Bari, back in 2001. It’s the story of a local baker, a united community, and a remarkable challenge that made headlines around the world. But the Altamura McDonald’s saga is more than just an anecdote—it represents a meaningful moment in the wider debate between globalisation and the protection of local traditions in Italy.
The incredible story of McDonald’s in Altamura
In 2001, McDonald’s added Altamura to its list of Puglia locations. But what makes this story special is not just the restaurant’s opening—but its closure just a few years later. It became a powerful symbol of how a local community can defend its culinary identity against the might of fast-food multinationals.
The case sparked interest not only across Italy but internationally too, eventually inspiring the film Focaccia Blues, which tells the tale of this unusual clash between an American multinational and the handmade flavours of Altamura.
When McDonald’s arrived in the heart of Altamura
McDonald’s chose to open its Altamura branch at Via Santa Caterina 17, right in the city centre—a lively area popular with both locals and tourists. The opening created quite a buzz: for many young people and families, it represented something new and exciting, a glimpse into a more globalised world.
But concerns quickly surfaced. Many locals worried the fast-food chain would overshadow the city’s culinary gems—most notably the famous Pane di Altamura DOP, a protected bread known across Italy and a proud symbol of Puglian tradition. The launch was met with a mix of enthusiasm and caution.
Luca Di Gesù and the community’s boycott
Everything changed thanks to the entrepreneurial spirit of local baker Luca Di Gesù. Already known for his exceptional focaccia—one of the region’s most iconic dishes—he responded to McDonald’s arrival by opening a small artisanal bakery nearby.
His aim was simple: to offer people a genuine alternative based on traditional recipes, local ingredients, and prices everyone could afford. The people of Altamura rallied behind him. Cultural associations, everyday citizens, and even local shopkeepers joined in a kind of spontaneous boycott against the fast-food chain and its standardised menus.
Why McDonald’s was forced to close
The community’s united front had a clear impact: footfall at the McDonald’s began to drop, while Di Gesù’s bakery quickly became a local favourite. Within just a few years, the contrast in customer numbers was so stark that the Altamura branch of McDonald’s was forced to shut its doors in 2005 due to lack of profits. It was a stunning victory for Altamura’s food culture over the forces of globalisation.
The closure made national and international headlines, turning Altamura into a symbol of resistance against the homogenisation of food culture.
The film that tells the tale of focaccia’s triumph
The cultural and media impact of the Altamura McDonald’s story was amplified by the release of Focaccia Blues—a documentary that recounts the events with humour and charm. The film highlights how the simple goodness of local, handmade products managed to win over the hearts (and tastebuds) of the community.
Today, the former McDonald’s site is home to a bank. Local bakeries continue to thrive, offering delicious products that embody the heritage and soul of the region. As of now, there isn’t a single McDonald’s restaurant operating in the city.
Living in Altamura
Set in the heart of the Alta Murgia National Park, Altamura boasts a lively medieval old town, a welcoming atmosphere, and a strong local identity. It’s a safe city where life unfolds between bustling piazzas, street markets, artisan shops and traditional eateries. Perfect for those seeking an authentic and community-focused place to live, Altamura offers more than just history—it’s also an ideal spot to build your future.
Browse listings on idealista to discover homes for sale and rent, all surrounded by the irresistible aroma of freshly baked focaccia.
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