A village on the Amalfi Coast without the crowds

A fishing village within the UNESCO site, with clean sea and free beaches, is a pleasant surprise for anyone looking for a quieter Amalfi Coast.
Cetara
Bernard Gagnon, CC BY 4.0 Wikimedia commons

On the Amalfi Coast, there is a place that manages to avoid the crowds, even on warm weekends. An authentic fishing village at the heart of the UNESCO World Heritage Site has crystal-clear water, a slower pace of life and prices that can be more affordable than expected. 

Just when it seems every corner of the coast is already familiar, this coastal spot comes as a surprise: there are spacious, well-kept free beaches and seafood cooking centred on the day’s catch.

Sea and beaches: relaxing without spending a fortune

In many spots along the Amalfi Coast, a day at the beach means pricey lidi – privately run beach clubs – and parasols booked weeks in advance. 

Cetara is different. 

Along the shore, there are spacious, well-maintained stretches of free beach, where it is possible to spend the day without unexpected costs.

The water has the same clarity that has made the whole area so popular, though the atmosphere is more relaxed. A swim can easily be followed by a stroll through the narrow lanes, with the village always close at hand.

A village shaped by the sea: traditions and flavours

Cetara’s culinary reputation travels well beyond Italy thanks to its signature speciality: colatura di alici. 

This amber anchovy sauce comes from an old tradition tied to fishing and the processing of oily fish. Alongside this local staple, the daily workings of the harbour bring tuna and other local species to the table, often caught that very day.

What to see: the Viceroyal Tower and San Pietro Apostolo

There is more to the village than the sea. The route around Cetara is short but full of interest, with no need for long journeys and plenty of scope to take things slowly. Places worth seeing include:

  • Viceroyal Tower: a reminder of the coast’s defensive past, overlooking the sea and giving an immediate sense of the area’s history.
  • Church of San Pietro Apostolo: an important local landmark, closely associated with the patron saint and Cetara’s seafaring traditions.
  • The lanes and views around the centre: small squares, tightly packed houses and the constant presence of the harbour, with boats in the background.

Access and parking

One lesser-known detail has a direct impact on how easy the village is to get around: once the blue-zone parking spaces are full, cars are no longer allowed into Cetara.

Anyone arriving at those times can leave their vehicle in private car parks on the hillside, then head down towards the centre.

A typical day in Cetara: sea, history and food

An early start works well, with a dip in the sea while the morning light is still soft and boats dot the horizon. Afterwards, take a walk up to the Viceroyal Tower to see the outline of the Amalfi Coast from above and get a sense of the curves of the surrounding scenery. Around midday, it makes sense to return to the lanes for something to eat, giving priority to whatever has just arrived at the harbour.

Article originally published on Fanpage: Cetara è il borgo nascosto e poco affollato da visitare in Costiera Amalfitana