The Italian island that outsmarts overtourism

Discover a lagoon town near Venice with Blue Flag beaches, thermal spas and seafood traditions, minus the overtourism.
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Hans Bezard, CC BY-SA 4.0 Wikimedia commons

An archipelago town where sunsets set the Adriatic glowing, yet without the pressure of mass tourism. Just over an hour from Venice, this island strikes a rare balance: it welcomes visitors, but never feels overwhelmed.

A “Venice” without the crowds

The island of Grado is a maze of calli and small squares that echo the traditional Adriatic world. The old port, the fishermen’s houses and the lagoon woven into daily routines set the tone.

There is still a noticeable Central European presence, a legacy of the Habsburg era when nearby Trieste served as the empire’s main port. German is often heard in the streets, particularly outside peak season. The atmosphere feels international yet understated, with hospitality built on continuity rather than spectacle.

Seafront wellbeing: the Grado Thermal Baths and thalassotherapy

The recently renovated Grado Thermal Baths are one of the town’s defining features. Longevity, prevention and holistic wellbeing programmes revolve around seawater used for therapeutic purposes.

Saunas, steam rooms, pools and treatments all face the Adriatic, reinforcing the link between environment and care. Yoga mats appear on the sand in the morning, and at sunset people stroll along the lagoon embankment. 

Living the lagoon: by boat among casoni and the island of Barbana

To understand the Grado lagoon, stepping onto a boat is essential. The channels wind through shallow waters and reeds, revealing the traditional casoni – fishermen’s huts that stand as reminders of a lagoon culture that has never disappeared.

Routes often lead to Barbana, a Marian sanctuary island among the oldest in the Adriatic. 

Deep roots: from Aquileia to the Basilica museums

The name Grado derives from the Roman gradus, the port of ancient Aquileia, once one of the most influential cities of the Roman Empire. When invasions unsettled the region, communities and religious authorities took refuge in the lagoon, transforming a fishing settlement into a commercial and spiritual centre.

Today, fewer than 8,000 residents live here, yet the town houses three museums, including the recently opened Basilica Treasury Museum, dedicated to artefacts from that long history. 

Until 1936, Grado was accessible only by boat; the bridge to the mainland is a relatively recent addition and helps explain why the island’s identity remains so distinct.

At the table with the lagoon: boreto and where to eat in Grado

In Grado, cooking follows a simple rule: few ingredients, total respect for the catch, clear identity. The emblematic dish is boreto alla graisana, made with the day’s fish, garlic, vinegar, salt and pepper, traditionally served with polenta.

Alongside long-standing trattorias, newer restaurants reinterpret lagoon classics with lighter techniques and a contemporary touch, without losing their essence.

Cycling between reserves and sea: the Alpe Adria arrives in Grado

Cycling fits naturally with the territory. A network of paths links the island to inland countryside and protected areas such as Valle Cavanata Nature Reserve and the Isonzo River Mouth.

Grado is also the finishing point of the Alpe Adria cycle route, which runs from Salzburg down to the Adriatic. In spring and autumn, groups of cycle tourists arrive at the seafront and dip their front wheel into the water.

Clean sea and reliable services: Blue Flag beaches

The relationship between Grado and its coastline is reflected in environmental recognition. The Blue Flag status has been confirmed for Spiaggia Principale, Costa Azzurra and Pineta.

For families, the shallow waters of the Adriatic here are particularly reassuring, with wide sandy stretches and well-organised lidos.

Surprising figures: high demand, little frenzy

With just over 7,000 residents and more than 1.4 million annual overnight stays, Grado could easily tip into overtourism. Instead, there are no oversized nightclubs, no relentless party scene, and very little hit-and-run tourism.

Those who choose the so-called Island of the Sun tend to be looking for a different tempo. Families value the safe, shallow sea. Cyclists end a major European route here. Thermal spa guests build quiet wellness routines around the rhythm of the lagoon.

Based on Corriere's article Grado, la Venezia segreta dell’Adriatico: tra laguna, terme marine e «boreto alla graisana», ecco l’Isola del Sole.

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