The Madonnina is not there. But otherwise, if you are in Rome and want to feel a little bit like you are in Milan, the place to be is the Church of the Sacred Heart of the Suffrage: a miniature Duomo, complete with an exterior façade full of pinnacles, taken and catapulted directly onto the Lungotevere.
The little neo-Gothic jewel seems to have just happened by chance, close as it is to the Umbertine architecture that designed the 'Palazzaccio' out of travertine, just a stone's throw from the medieval and Renaissance streets conceived for the grandeur of the Popes near the bend in the Tiber. Passing by, one cannot fail to be struck by the architectural dissonance from everything around it: and it is precisely because of this small and unexpected neo-Gothic work that, for everyone, this church is simply 'The Little Cathedral'.
"A very interesting structure: I think it was deliberately put out of place, a bit like the Statue of Liberty on the Seine, in Paris," says writer Fulvio Abbate, who not by chance included this church in his 'Non-Conformist Guide to the City'. 'I mentioned it precisely because of this architectural oddity, let's say a divertissement, that induces the passer-by to suddenly find themself in front of such a structure in the midst of an umbertine context'.
It seems to have been there forever like all the buildings that have sprung up around it (St Peter's Basilica, for example, is not even a kilometre away), and yet it was only built in 1908 to a design by the engineer Giuseppe Gualandi (known precisely for the neo-Gothic approach of his buildings). The church was then completed and opened to the public in 1917.
"When you pass by it suddenly appears and it's not even easy to stop and look at it (as the cars come out just a few metres away from a busy subway, ed). When the structure was built, Rome had a pedestrian dimension, but nowadays with cars it is really difficult to stop, and in many cases you are left with curiosity'.
According to Abbate, the church, which today basically functions as a parish church ("because in this city every block claims its own parish, as a matter of religious bell tower") also has something Fellini-esque about it, "the opening scene of the film '8 ½', by the famous Rimini director, when Marcello Mastroianni has the sensation of suffocating, was filmed right in the subway in front of it".
Everything seems to be made to amaze, in these parts: one glimpses the severe spires of the Church "and then a little further on one encounters the Palazzaccio, which with its pilasters and broken columns inspires awe" Abbate observes.
If every church is the gate to Paradise, this one is somehow an exception: in a room immediately adjacent to the sacristy is the small museum of Purgatory. It is an archive open to the public with testimonies that would document the afterlife manifestations of the deceased.
"The 'little cathedral' is visited, not least because the interior retains the premises of the neo-Gothic style as expressed by the spires and the nineteen statues of saints that raise the outer façade to the sky. The beautiful pipe organ is located on the counter-façade wall. Three high naves, with solemn pillars, groin and pointed arches and rose and stained-glass windows that filter a still, reverent light into the interior space.
A bit like in Milan. Except that when you leave here, instead of the square and the neo-Renaissance style of the Galleria Umberto I, you see the Tiber flowing placidly and sinuously to greet you.
Italian cities for a winter getaway: northern culture and southern sun
Winter in Italy runs from candlelit piazzas in the north to sunlit promenades in the south. Crowds thin out after the holidays, museum lines shrink, and prices ease up, though daylight is short and the odd storm rolls through. If you’re weighing up Italian cities to visit in winter, here’s a tight, city-by-city guide with what it actually feels like on the ground.
Italy’s 2026 short-term rental tax hike: what travellers and hosts need to know
Italy is moving to hike taxes on short‑term rentals, with ministers removing the current host tax break and applying one higher, standard rate.
Living in Radicondoli: get paid to enjoy real Tuscan village life
Up in the Siena hills, Radicondoli is the kind of Tuscan village where evenings still revolve around the piazza and summer theatre spills into courtyards. There’s a quiet buzz at the moment as the council is paying newcomers to move here by covering half the rent for the first two years and helping with lease guarantees.
Six of Italy's best natural hot springs for relaxation and wellness
Italy isn’t just famous for its incredible cuisine and rich history—it’s also home to some of the most stunning natural hot springs and thermal baths in Europe. Nestled in scenic landscapes, these natural spas offer a unique way to rejuvenate the body and soul, with mineral-rich waters celebrated for their therapeutic properties.
Best things to do in Lucca: Tuscany’s walled city
If you’re hunting for things to do in Lucca, picture a walled Tuscan city where the pace is gentle, the views are timeless, and surprises wait around each corner. Expect slow-lane charm, hidden courtyards and just enough buzz to keep you exploring without giving the game away.
Living in Lucca: life in Tuscany’s historic city
If you’re thinking about living in Lucca, this small Tuscan city delivers a big daily-life dividend. Its intact Renaissance walls form a leafy ring for walking or cycling, the lanes inside are calm and flat, and cafés cluster around Piazza dell’Anfiteatro and San Michele in Foro. Lucca sits between Pisa and Florence, so day trips and commutes are easy by train.
Where to go on holiday in Italy in November: 9 top destinations for 2025
November is a wonderful month to escape to Italy. Many parts of the country still enjoy mild weather, and in the major cultural cities, you can explore historic sites without the summer crowds. It’s also perfect for hikers wanting to enjoy the magical autumn colours. And why not let yourself be charmed by Italy’s small villages? November is the season of food festivals, with local specialities on display almost everywhere. Here’s where to go for a November getaway in Italy.