An Italian railway line, often called the Railway of Wonders, runs for just over 100 kilometres. In that short stretch, it climbs roughly 1,000 metres in altitude, threads through spiral tunnels and viaducts, and links northern Italy to the French Riviera.
One of the top 10 train journeys in the world
The line runs between Cuneo and Ventimiglia, with a branch extending to Nice. In less than 50 kilometres as the crow flies, it climbs around 1,000 metres.
It cuts across the Maritime Alps through spiral tunnels, tight hairpin bends, and high viaducts suspended over deep gorges. In just a few hours, it links Piedmont, Liguria and the French Riviera in one continuous sweep.
Out of the window, the scenery shifts steadily: cultivated plains give way to rugged mountain valleys, then olive terraces, and finally the glint of the Ligurian Sea. Few railways compress so much geographical variety into a single journey.
A 1920s engineering feat shaped by European history
The Cuneo–Ventimiglia–Nice railway officially opened in 1928 at a time when Nice was still under Savoy rule. It represents an ambitious attempt to improve connections between northern Europe and the western Riviera.
Building a railway across the Maritime Alps was no modest undertaking. The line relies on a sequence of spiral tunnels, allowing trains to loop inside the mountain to gain height without extreme gradients.
The engineering highlight is the Tenda tunnel, stretching over 8 kilometres beneath the pass. For a line inaugurated in 1928, carving through this terrain required remarkable precision and nerve.
The route suffered severe damage during the Second World War, with bombed sections and collapsed bridges disrupting cross-border links. Its full restoration in 1979 was more than a technical achievement; it marked a renewed connection between Italy and France in a historically sensitive border region.
Over time, the railway has come to symbolise reconciliation as much as infrastructure.
Today, it is regarded as one of Europe’s most interesting scenic rail routes. It has been recognised by the FAI (Fondo per l’Ambiente Italiano) as a “Place of the Heart”, acknowledging both its cultural importance and its enduring presence in the Alpine landscape.
The route today: From Cuneo to the Mediterranean
The full experience runs between Cuneo and Ventimiglia, with a branch towards Nice. The scenery changes steadily, rather than all at once.
From Cuneo to Limone Piemonte
Cuneo sits on the Piedmont plain, framed by the Alps. Leaving the city, the line passes:
- Borgo San Dalmazzo
- Robilante, where there’s a museum dedicated to the accordion
- Vernante, whose walls are painted with scenes from Pinocchio, inspired by illustrator Attilio Mussino
After Vernante, the serious climbing begins. The tunnels come in quick succession, and the train edges towards Limone Piemonte, a well-known Alpine ski resort.
The Tenda Pass and the Roya Valley
Beyond Limone, the line tackles the high Alpine section. The Tenda tunnel, stretching more than 8 kilometres, carries the train beneath the pass. On the other side, you enter France and descend into the Roya Valley.
Key stops include:
- Tende, home to the Musée des Merveilles, which explores prehistoric rock carvings
- Saint-Dalmas-de-Tende, whose large 1930s station was built to receive international trains arriving from as far as Berlin
La Brigue and its Renaissance frescoes
A short detour leads to La Brigue, a mountain village with carved stone portals and a slightly secluded feel.
Just outside the village stands the Church of Notre Dame des Fontaines, housing a 15th-century cycle of frescoes by Giovanni Canavesio and Giovanni Baleison.
Breil-sur-Roya: Two branches, two horizons
At Breil-sur-Roya, the line splits. Here you’ll find a small lake beside the station and a transport ecomuseum preserving objects and memories linked to the railway
From this point:
- One branch heads towards Nice, via Sospel and villages such as L’Escarène, Peille and Peillon
- The other branch returns to Italy, passing Olivetta San Michele, Airole and Trucco before reaching Ventimiglia
Arrival in Ventimiglia
The final stretch feels almost Mediterranean in temperament. Olive terraces and dry-stone walls replace Alpine rock.
The line meets the Ligurian Sea here, and onward coastal trains continue towards France if you want to complete the loop.
Cuneo–Ventimiglia train times and ticket prices
For something considered one of the most scenic railways in the world, it’s surprisingly accessible.
On the Cuneo–Ventimiglia route, there are typically around four daily connections in each direction.
Main departures from Cuneo:
- 06:41 – arrival in Ventimiglia at 09:21
- 08:41 – arrival at 11:21
- 14:41 – arrival at 17:33
- 17:15 – arrival at 20:03
The journey takes roughly 2 hours and 40 minutes, depending on the service.
How much does the Cuneo–Ventimiglia train cost?
Ticket prices start from €9.75, varying depending on class, time and how far in advance you book.
Living in Cuneo: gateway to a world-class rail journey
Framed by the Alps and within reach of the Ligurian Sea, Cuneo is orderly, calm and practical rather than flashy.
The historic centre boasts long arcaded streets and broad squares. Property prices remain more approachable than in Turin or Milan. Housing ranges from apartments in the old town to detached homes surrounded by greenery in quieter residential areas.
For anyone considering a move to northern Italy, it’s the sort of place that offers access to mountains, sea and even France, without the pressure or pricing of larger cities.
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