Elba may seem familiar at first, until you come across corners that change the picture entirely: a green lagoon where swimming is forbidden, a black beach reached only by taking the walk slowly, and a fortress that never fell under siege.
These are six unusual, lesser-visited places on Elba, giving a different perspective on Tuscany’s best-known island in the archipelago.
Terranera Lake and its swimming ban
Between Mola and Capo d’Arco, in one of Elba’s former mining areas, a small beach of black sand, full of hematite crystals, frames an emerald-green lake. The contrast in colour is stark, almost cinematic, but swimming is forbidden for safety reasons.
This unusual corner of Elba is therefore best appreciated from the shore. It gives a real sense of an island shaped by both nature and hematite mining.
Volterraio Castle, the unconquered sentinel
Elba’s oldest fortress stands 394 metres above sea level and is so striking that it can be spotted from a distance, including from the ferry. It is reached via the road linking Portoferraio and Porto Azzurro, near areas with several of the island’s most popular beaches. Settlements on the hill date back to the Etruscan period, while the complex in its present form was built between the late 13th and 15th centuries.
The origin of its name remains uncertain, but one detail is clear: this was one of the few fortresses on Elba never conquered by the Turks. In difficult times, it served as a refuge for local people.
Le Tombe Beach: black, steep and wild
Le Tombe requires steady footing, as the path down is steep. The reward is a stretch of coastline where silence and nature take centre stage. The beach consists of dark pebbles in different sizes, changing the feel of the sea and the heat underfoot as the day goes on. Its name is linked to the possible presence of Etruscan tombs.
Nearby are Aliva Beach, also called Cala dell’Alga, and Giardino Beach, both in the Marina di Campo area. The uphill return and the lack of nearby facilities are worth bearing in mind before setting off.
Nisporto Beach: peaceful, including for families
Nisporto is not one of the most frequently mentioned beaches, perhaps luckily so. Accessible via Rio Elba and Bagnaia, Nisporto Bay is sheltered and gently shaped, with conditions that can also suit children. There is a reminder of the area’s working past in the remains of the kiln known as della Ballerina, part of a brick and limeworks operation whose products were once taken by rowing boat to Portoferraio.
Its peaceful setting and the shelter created by the bay’s shape are worth considering before spending the day here. It suits those after a simple, secluded break by the sea.
Capoliveri Mines, where the former ironworks can be visited
Elba’s south-east contains iron ore deposits that shaped life in Capoliveri for generations. Mining stopped in 1980, despite ore still being present, and the old sites and infrastructure can now be visited. The Ginevro Mine, Calamita Mine, the small Sassi Neri Mine and the Vecchia Officina Museum create a route combining technology, scenery and local memory.
A visit needs a bit of time and attention. The order of the sites makes it possible to take things at a comfortable pace, starting with the larger mine sites before moving on to smaller ones and finishing at the museum, where the tools and stories of the industry are brought together.
Laghetto delle Conche, the red lake
Laghetto delle Conche, in the Mining Park near Rio Marina on Elba Island, is one of the island’s most evocative spots. Its water has an intense red colour, caused by the high concentration of iron minerals left by the old mines in the surrounding area. Shades shift between red, orange and purple, creating an unusual setting popular with photography enthusiasts.
The lake is not suitable for swimming and is considered an area of considerable natural and historical interest. Visits are generally possible through guided tours organised by the Mining Park, which explain the area’s mining history and geological features.
Living on Elba Island
Clear sea a short walk from home, clean air throughout the year and a daily rhythm removed from the rush of larger cities are all part of life on Elba. The property market is varied, with sea-view flats in the historic centres of Portoferraio and Porto Azzurro, along with detached villas set among Mediterranean scrub in the hills around Marciana and Sant’Andrea.
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