In the magnificent setting of St Mark’s Square in Venice, beneath the arcades of the Procuratie Nuove, stands Caffè Florian — a historic café that holds the distinction of being the world’s oldest “bottega del caffè” (the name used for coffee houses in the 18th century). Founded on 29 December 1720 by Floriano Francesconi, it has welcomed distinguished figures for more than three centuries, including Gabriele D’Annunzio and Eleonora Duse, as well as Charlie Chaplin, Andy Warhol and Clint Eastwood. idealista/news visited its richly decorated rooms — adorned with frescoes and artworks (the Venice Biennale of Visual Arts was born here) — and explored its history with the expert guidance of Stefano Stipitivich, Artistic Director of Caffè Florian.
The most famous coffee house since 1720
“When Floriano Francesconi opened it in 1720, it was just one of many coffee houses in Venice. Coffee, which had arrived from the East, was hugely popular and had become the drink of the Enlightenment,” Stipitivich explains. “But it quickly became the most renowned, especially during Carnival, which in 18th-century Venice was an extraordinary business. Distinguished visitors came from all over the world because, hidden behind a mask, they could ‘break the rules’ without being recognised.”
“Caffè Florian is the oldest café in the world,” Stipitivich continues, “a place where people don’t just drink coffee — they also create contemporary art. Before Florian, the Procope opened in Paris, but today it is only a bistro and nothing remains of the original café founded at the end of the 17th century.”
The mid-19th-century transformation
The original Caffè Florian was very simple, consisting of just two elegant small rooms. “It didn’t even have doors, because it stayed open day and night. It was a meeting place for the intellectuals and artists of the time.”
In the mid-19th century, however, the new owners “brought in Ludovico Cadorin, one of the most famous architects of the period”, who completely transformed the venue and gave it the appearance it retains today.
“Each room has its own name: the one we are in is the Senate Room, but there is also the Hall of Illustrious Men, the Chinese Room, the Oriental Room, the Seasons Room and a small Liberty Room, which is the most recent, dating from the 1920s. Everything else dates back to Cadorin’s redesign.”
“Every room is decorated with frescoes that carry a special meaning. The one we’re in, for example, contains Masonic references. It’s no coincidence that when Valéry Giscard and Jacques Chirac visited, they specifically asked to sit in this room, beneath the Angel of Progress.”
“There isn’t a famous visitor to Venice who hasn’t stopped by Florian. D’Annunzio used to meet Eleonora Duse here. More recently, Clint Eastwood came in for a drink — not a coffee, but a beer — during the filming of one of his movies. Andy Warhol also visited and left his Campbell’s signature in our guest book, which contains the autographs of the many distinguished figures who have passed through Florian.”
A hub of contemporary art where the Venice Biennale was born
Caffè Florian is not only a place to enjoy a drink — it is also a centre of art. The Venice Biennale of Visual Arts was conceived right here.
“At the end of the 19th century, Riccardo Selvatico, who was then mayor of Venice, together with a circle of artists, decided to organise the city’s first international exhibition while seated in these very rooms.”
“In parallel with the Architecture Biennale, we host art installations throughout Florian’s rooms. Among the artists we’ve welcomed are Gaetano Pesce, Fabrizio Plessi and Mimmo Rotella. We didn’t simply ask them to display works, but to reinterpret Florian’s spaces. For example, a Chinese artist transformed the Chinese Room with mirrors that filled the entire space. We collaborate with many artists, and several of these works are loaned to museums.”
The Florian team: from musicians to waiters
During the summer months, musicians perform outside Florian’s entrance, entertaining guests and tourists strolling through St Mark’s Square.
“There are two small orchestras that rotate morning, afternoon and evening. They are professional orchestral musicians, most of whom come from Eastern Europe.”
Florian’s waiters are also selected with great care — all impeccably dressed in tailcoats during evening service.
“Service at Florian is carried out on silver trays because we place great importance on presentation. Considering that prices are not exactly modest (a coffee at Florian costs around €15), we must live up to expectations and guarantee the very highest quality.”
An international clientele
Most of Florian’s customers are international visitors, although “there is still a loyal core of Venetians, even if there are now very few locals left in the city. During Carnival, around 70% of guests are French and German, but throughout the year we also welcome many Korean and Japanese visitors.”