Those arriving in Orbetello find a lagoon town with the open sea only a few steps away. This corner of Tuscany pairs long sandy beaches with rocky coves, backed by shady pine forests and lapped by remarkably clear water. It’s an unusual contrast in Italy, and one that gives this stretch of Maremma a character all its own.
Among the things to see in Orbetello are bike rides through the pinewoods, unhurried swims, and snorkelling over transparent seabeds.
Where it is and why it catches your eye straight away
Orbetello sits in southern Maremma, spread across a lagoon and linked to Monte Argentario by a narrow dam. On either side are two long sandy stretches: Feniglia to the south and Giannella to the north.
This unusual layout gives the town a real sense of being suspended between the lagoon and the Tyrrhenian Sea. One moment you’re looking out over still, silvery water dotted with fishing huts, the next you’re heading towards open sea and wide beaches, all just a short bike ride or drive away.
Three iconic beaches: Feniglia, Giannella and Ansedonia
Along this stretch of coast, the water quality is consistently high and much of the shoreline is framed by protected nature.
Feniglia: seven kilometres of deer and pine-scented air
Feniglia is a long arc of pale sand stretching for about seven kilometres, with a shallow, gently sloping seabed.
It’s backed by the Feniglia Dune Nature Reserve, a thick pine forest that stays cool even in August and is home to deer and typical Mediterranean scrub.Cycle paths run through the trees and lead almost directly to the beach.
Giannella: eight kilometres shaped by the wind
On the northern side, Giannella extends for roughly eight kilometres, with fine sand and calm, gradually deepening water near the shore.
Its exposure to steady winds makes it popular with sailing and windsurfing enthusiasts, who use the wide open stretches to rig boards and sails. The views back towards Monte Argentario add a dramatic backdrop on clear days.
Ansedonia: sea with an archaeological edge
Further south, Ansedonia has a more intimate character, with sand mixed with small pebbles and a slightly wilder look. The sea here is clear and often deeper than at Feniglia or Giannella.
Close by are the Tagliata Etrusca and the Spaccata della Regina, striking remains of ancient Etruscan-Roman hydraulic engineering carved into the rock
Argentario: between clear coves and breathtaking seabeds
Cross the dam that links Orbetello to Monte Argentario and the scenery shifts almost at once. The coastline turns rocky, small coves appear between headlands, and the water takes on brighter, more intense shades.
Cala del Gesso: easy to reach
One of the best-known spots, Cala del Gesso, has pale pebbles, deep blue water and a tucked-away feel. It’s reached by a downhill path, which is more demanding on the way back up.
Cala Galera: soft and close to the port
Near the marina of the same name, Cala Galera offers a mixed sand and pebble seabed and often calm waters. Accessible via a dirt road, it's less strenuous than Cala del Gesso and offers a quieter atmosphere than the beach resorts.
Acqua Dolce: snorkelling among ravines and small caves
Rocky outcrops, pebbles, changing depths, and numerous natural shelters for marine life: this is the ideal destination for snorkelers.
La Bionda: white sand just steps from Porto Ercole
Here you'll find light-colored sand, easy access, and relatively close parking. The water remains clear, but the seabed is sandy, making it suitable for even the youngest children. The beach is largely public, with a few nearby restaurants and bars.
What to eat: lagoon dishes
Cooking in Orbetello follows the rhythms of lagoon fishing. Bottarga di muggine — cured mullet roe — is the local star, firm, savoury and deeply flavoured. It’s shaved over a simple plate of pasta or served in thin slices with good Tuscan olive oil, where its salty richness does all the work.
You’ll also come across bluefish, eel and grey mullet, usually grilled over charcoal or slowly stewed in traditional recipes. Alongside the catch of the day sit the earthy flavours of the Maremma: game meats, especially wild boar, rustic soups and seasonal vegetables that reflect the area’s agricultural roots as much as its waters.
Stay inspired for your travels in Italy —get our weekly newsletter for the latest travel, legal, and lifestyle news.
