A tiny hilltop settlement in Lombardy has earned its identity through a free-roaming feline colony that has lived among its stone houses and lanes for generations. With roughly 100 residents, old rural architecture, a castle tower and vineyards on its doorstep, it is a quiet corner of the Oltrepò Pavese with a rather memorable local story.
The Lombardy village where cats rule the historic centre
Golferenzo, in the province of Pavia, is affectionately called il borgo dei gatti — the village of cats. The small municipality sits on the eastern edge of Lombardy, a few kilometres from the Emilia-Romagna border.
A registered colony of around 20 cats lives in the village, joined at times by other cats arriving from the surrounding countryside. They move freely along its cobbled streets, stone walls and old doorways.
The association goes back to a local noble family. The final descendant to live in the family palace kept dozens of cats and allowed them to roam the courtyards and lanes. When that period came to an end, one local woman began feeding and caring for the animals. Other residents followed, creating a shared custom that has continued across generations.
One historic route still carries the dialect name Via dei Gât, meaning Street of Cats.
A medieval settlement overlooking the Val Versa
Golferenzo stands on a ridge above the Val Versa, an area of vineyards where Riesling and Pinot Nero are central to local production. It is also included in Lombardy’s Borghi più Belli d’Italia network.
The centre is made up of a few dozen old houses, many built using local stone and wood. These traditional rural homes are called Cà locally, and are connected by narrow paved passages and cobbled lanes.
The village is also home to Lombardy’s first albergo diffuso. In this type of accommodation, rooms are spread across restored historic buildings rather than housed in one conventional hotel.
The church, tower and former prison
The parish church of San Nicola stands in the square of the same name, behind an old perimeter wall. Its earliest origins date to the 11th and 12th centuries, when it was built in Romanesque style as the chapel of the seignorial castle.
A stone tower is all that remains of the castle built in the 12th century. The castle was destroyed in 1216 by troops from Piacenza during fighting between medieval Italian communes.
A small museum dedicated to corkscrews
Beside the church, the Museo dei Cavatappi holds more than 200 corkscrews from different periods and settings. The collection traces three centuries of wine-related history and reflects the long-standing importance of winemaking in the Oltrepò Pavese.
Food and wine events in Golferenzo
Late spring and summer bring food and wine events to the historic centre. SaXbere and Convivium are the main dates mentioned, bringing together local producers, tastings and regional food.
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