If you’re after a slice of Italy that feels genuinely removed from the usual Rome–Florence–Venice circuit, an island in Sardinia has a certain quiet drama about it.
This limestone and granite island rises sharply out of the sea, with a unique flat summit. It's located within a marine protected area, and its story includes a self-declared royal family, a NATO base and an annual film festival on the sand.
Where is Tavolara, and why does it feel so remote?
Tavolara lies in the Gulf of Olbia, along Sardinia’s north-east coast. Its dark, flat-topped profile dominates the horizon across the stretch of coastline between Golfo Aranci and San Teodoro.
The island stretches roughly 6–7 kilometres long and about 1 kilometre wide.
- Only the west side is accessible to visitors. This narrow strip of sand and low rocks is where you’ll find the beaches, two seafront restaurants and a small pier.
- The east side is closed due to the presence of a NATO base, and large sections of the island remain wild, with cliffs and inaccessible terrain.
Inside Tavolara's Marine Protected Area
Tavolara sits at the centre of the Area Marina Protetta Tavolara – Punta Coda Cavallo. The protected zone covers approximately 15,000 hectares of sea. Underwater, the area is defined by:
- Extensive seagrass meadows
- Corals and colourful sponges
- Sightings of sea turtles and dolphins
The protected status means that access and activities are regulated, particularly around diving and landing points.
How to get to Tavolara
To reach Tavolara, you’ll first need to get to the mainland coast between Olbia and Porto San Paolo. Olbia is well connected, with ferry links to major Italian ports and one of the Mediterranean’s most served airports, so it’s usually the easiest base.
By boat from Porto San Paolo
This is the quickest and most straightforward option in high season:
- Departures can operate up to every 30 minutes in summer
- Crossing time is around 10–15 minutes
Some operators also offer longer excursions within the marine protected area, including stops near Molara, associated with natural pools.
By ferry from Olbia
Local ferries take around one hour to reach Tavolara. This is a practical option if you’re arriving in Olbia by ferry with a car.
Boat and rubber dinghy rentals are available along the coast between Olbia, Porto San Paolo and San Teodoro for those who prefer more flexibility.
Landing on Tavolara is permitted only at Spalmatore di Terra (south-west side).
The “Kingdom of Tavolara”: Italy’s smallest Royal story
In antiquity, the island was known as Hermaea, dedicated to the god Hermes, and archaeological evidence points to human presence dating back to the Neolithic period.
The modern royal claim centres on the Bertoleoni family. According to the BBC, Carlo Alberto later confirmed that Tavolara had never officially been part of the Kingdom of Sardinia and sent a scroll from the House of Savoy recognising the island’s monarchy. Over time:
- The Bertoleoni family established a coat of arms, a royal family tree and a cemetery
- Tavolara signed a peace treaty with Italy in 1903
- The installation of a NATO base in 1962 effectively curtailed the island’s independence
Today, Tonino Bertoleoni is regarded as the fifth king of what is often described as the world’s smallest inhabited kingdom, home to 11 part-time residents and around 100 mountain goats.
Things to do on Tavolara
Despite its small accessible area, Tavolara offers several distinctive experiences.
Climb Punta Cannone via the Via Ferrata
The island’s highest point is Punta Cannone. The ascent follows a route combining trekking and equipped sections, known as the Via Ferrata degli Angeli.
Diving and snorkelling in a protected marine zone
Dive centres on the mainland organise outings to well-known sites including:
- Grottone
- Cala Cicale
- Secca dell’Elefante
- Teddja Liscia
The Marine Protected Area organises boat outings that often include swimming stops at sunset along with explanations focused on marine biology, adding an educational element to the experience.
Film festival on the sand
Each year between June and July, Tavolara hosts the film festival Una Notte in Italia. Screenings take place outdoors on the beach, with the screen mounted directly on the sand and seating arranged either on chairs or directly on the shoreline.
Stay inspired for your travels in Italy —get our weekly newsletter for the latest travel, legal, and lifestyle news.
